
Kässpatzen and Viehscheid
Food & Beer Culture
Cheese and beer have always gone together in the Allgäu, since both come from what the land provides. Kässpatzen—small egg noodles layered with tangy mountain cheese and baked in the oven or finished in a pan—come topped with roasted onions. A Helles pairs well, its gentle sweetness balancing the cheese while its light bitterness cuts through the onions.
Allgäuer Bergkäse, like Allgäuer Emmentaler, carries a protected designation of origin. Stronger still is Weißlacker, a pungent soft cheese also known as Bierkäse ("beer cheese"). It's eaten with onions and dark bread, paired well with a wheat beer or a Dunkel.
The inns—often breweries with attached guesthouses—are the heart of the region's beer culture. According to Wikipedia, the Allgäu Beer Route links roughly 30 such establishments across Bavaria and Upper Swabia. Visitors sit down to Kässpatzen, roasts, or a hearty cold platter (Brotzeit).
Late summer, usually in September, brings the Viehscheid. The cattle are driven down from the alpine pastures into the valley, decorated with wreaths and bells, and villages celebrate with festival tents, music and food. What ends up in the stein or glass is usually the beer from the nearest brewery.
During Carnival and Lent, Starkbier (strong beer) fills the glass. A Maß is a full liter, a Halbe half that. Beer here is enjoyed unhurried, with food and conversation, and anyone avoiding alcohol can order an alcohol-free wheat beer.