Tasting

Three bottles on a table spark three different conversations when you set Schladerer Schwarzwälder Williamsbirne, Schladerer Himbeergeist, and a Zibärtle side by side. Zibärtle can be found, for example, at Schladerer in Staufen and at Scheibel in Kappelrodeck, both offered as examples rather than recommendations.

A small tulip glass or a nosing glass with a narrow opening works well, as it concentrates the aroma. A thick-walled shot glass won't do the job, and it's worth holding the glass under your nose before the first sip, without swirling it. Too much alcohol vapor numbs the nose.

Cool, but not cold, is the temperature at which these brandies show their best aromas. Cold suppresses the aromas, while warmth makes them broad and overly alcoholic. One sip is enough, held briefly in the mouth before swallowing.

With Williams pear, the ripe fruit stands out first, followed by a mild sweetness. With Himbeergeist, the berry is present immediately and lingers long on the finish. Zibärtle takes longer: tight and austere at first, then opening into almond and spice. Tasting all three in turn reveals just how differently pear, berry, and wild plum can taste.

Tasting a brandy is about discovery, not about drinking in quantity, and sipping water in between keeps the palate fresh. Notes help: what smells of fruit, what of spice? And what lingers on the finish? Between samples, a sip of water and a piece of bread keep the tongue and nose neutral.