Tasting

A Williams wants to be smelled before it's drunk. A nosing glass or tulip glass works well for this, a glass with a slender bowl that narrows toward the top and collects the aromas. In a wide water glass, they dissipate before even reaching the nose.

On temperature: fruit brandies taste best at a cool room temperature, around 16 to 18 degrees Celsius (61 to 64°F). If the glass is too cold, the aroma stays closed; if too warm, the alcohol becomes sharp. Hold the glass briefly by the bowl, swirl it gently, and smell first at the rim, without inhaling too deeply.

Two houses from Tramin serve as good examples. Roner offers, among others, a Grappa Lagrein Riserva, while Psenner has a Lagrein Grappa Monovitigno, meaning it's distilled from the grapes of a single variety alone. Both houses also carry fruit brandies in their range, including pear and apple brandies.

With Williams, ripe pear comes first, then a gentle sweetness, finishing dry. Golden Delicious shows apple, mild and round, while Gravenstein offers more freshness and skin character. The Lagrein Grappa brings dark berries, a hint of cocoa, and a slightly bitter note from the skins, with vanilla added by the wood.

When comparing brandies, set the glasses side by side on a wooden table, add a piece of bread and a glass of water, and cleanse the palate between tastings. A small sip is enough to recognize the difference between pear, apple and pomace. Nothing more is needed.