Tasting

Anyone tasting Californian gin for the first time should let go of expectations of classic juniper character. The best approach is to nose it carefully and unhurriedly. In St. George Spirits' Terroir Gin, conifer wood and resin dominate first. Behind that emerge citrus and a slightly menthol-like coolness. This is mainly the result of Douglas fir and California bay laurel. Pure juniper recedes almost entirely into the background in this gin.

Botanivore, by contrast, shows how a gin with 19 botanicals can still feel balanced. Spicy through cardamom and fennel, with a green, herbaceous side from coriander and dill. A fine bitterness lingers on the finish. Junípero remains the reference point for the bold, classic style. Plenty of juniper, along with anise and citrus peel, define it clearly. It stays high-proof and isn't chill-filtered, giving it a slightly oilier texture.

For pure tasting, an unchilled sip at drinking strength and comfortable room temperature helps. A narrow glass that carries the aromas upward works best for this. A small sip of water in between reliably cleanses the nose. This is a familiar approach from wine tasting as well. It makes the differences between the three gins mentioned much clearer in the end.

Anyone with extra time should nose the open glass again after two or three minutes of standing. Some of the resinous notes from Douglas fir and sage change noticeably in the air. After a short while, they often come across as rounder than right after pouring.