Food & Occasion

Lamego is home to Presunto, the region's air-dried ham. It tastes salty and savory, and that's exactly what makes it a great match for a sparkling wine from the highlands: the taut acidity and the carbonation cut through the fat and refresh the palate. Thinly sliced, with bread, it makes a classic starter.

A second example is Bola de Lamego, a filled bread baked with Presunto inside. Here too, sparkling wine helps: the bread is hearty and dry, and the wine rinses the palate and brings fruit into play. A Bruto Branco or a Blanc de Blancs works best, though a Blanc de Noirs can also handle something a bit more robust.

For the sweet side, there are the doces conventuais, Portugal's convent sweets made from egg yolk and sugar. They recall the region's Cistercian heritage, and a Doce whose sweetness can match theirs is the right pairing. What matters is that the wine is sweeter than the dessert, or it will taste sour by comparison.

Festivities are part of this too. The pilgrimage to Nossa Senhora dos Remédios in Lamego takes place in late summer and fills the town with visitors. At New Year's, weddings, and christenings, Espumante is a popular pour in Portugal; anyone visiting the region will find wineries in Tarouca and Lamego that offer tastings and tours.

Through it all, one rule applies: the wine is a companion, not a substitute for the meal. One glass with food is enough, and if you're driving, skip it altogether.