Tasting

What does an Espumante from Távora-Varosa taste like? Typical notes include fresh citrus and apple fruit, brioche and nuts from lees aging, plus taut acidity and fine bubbles. The altitude keeps it lean, and the Pinot Noir gives it backbone.

Three wines from Raposeira serve as good examples. The Super Reserva Blanc de Blancs, made from white varieties, shows citrus freshness and delicacy. The Super Reserva Blanc de Noirs, made from Pinot Noir, is fuller-bodied, with pale red fruit. Then there's the Super Reserva Rosé, a Bruto with more berry character.

A tulip-shaped glass suits this wine better than a flat coupe. It concentrates the aromas in the bowl and lets the bubbles rise longer, while the coupe lets the freshness dissipate quickly. In a pinch, a slim white wine glass will also do.

Serving temperature is six to eight degrees Celsius. Too cold, and both the aromas and the lees notes disappear; too warm, and the wine turns broad and foams over on opening. Two hours in the refrigerator is enough.

Opening it properly goes like this: remove the foil, loosen the wire cage with about six turns while holding the cork firmly with your hand. Then turn the bottle rather than the cork, holding it at an angle, until you hear just a soft sigh. This way the pressure stays in the wine instead of shooting out.

Anyone who smells and then tastes notices the difference between freshly poured and five minutes later: at first fruit dominates, later the lees and baked notes emerge.