Lees Aging & Dosage

How long a Pezsgő must rest on its lees depends on the method. For classic bottle fermentation, it's at least nine months at the same producer; for Tokaj Pezsgő, also nine. The longer it rests, the more depth it gains, which is why houses often leave bottles resting longer than the law requires.

During this time, the dead yeast cells break down in a process called autolysis. It gives the wine aromas of fresh bread and brioche and makes the bubbles finer. In Budafok, all of this happens in the limestone cellar, where the temperature barely fluctuates—and that helps, since yeast works best under steady conditions.

Then the bottles must be cleared of the yeast. They're placed upside down in riddling racks and turned until the yeast collects in the neck. During disgorgement, the plug of yeast shoots out, leaving only clear wine in the bottle. No transfer into a tank takes place.

Finally comes the dosage. It replaces what was lost during disgorgement, usually with wine and a bit of sugar, and determines the sweetness level. A Brut has less than 12 grams of sugar per liter, while Extra Dry, at 12 to 17 grams, is actually a touch sweeter. Where the label reads Extra Brut or Brut Nature, the wine is even drier.

Törley Chardonnay Brut falls on the drier side. Its sweetness is kept low so the Chardonnay's acidity, drawn from the cooler sites of Etyek, can shine through.