Tasting

Törley Chardonnay Brut tastes dry and fresh. Typical of cool-climate Chardonnay are citrus, green apple, and a bright, clean acidity, with a hint of brioche emerging with a bit of age. The bubbles rise fine and persistent when the glass is clean. Look first at the color and the mousse—a young Chardonnay sparkling wine is pale yellow to light gold. Then smell before you sip, and notice how long the flavor lingers.

Törley's premium François Prestige range shows how much more cellar aging can add to the same basic idea. The wine becomes rounder and deeper without losing its freshness.

A good counterpoint is a Pezsgő from Kreinbacher in Somló. There, volcanic soil yields wines with a salty, mineral edge, and the house filled its first Pezsgő in 2014. Comparing the two shows just how strongly soil shapes a sparkling wine. Both are mentioned here purely as tasting examples, not as a purchase recommendation.

A dry Pezsgő tastes best at 8 to 10 degrees Celsius—too cold and the aromas close up, too warm and it turns heavy. A tulip glass suits it better than a flat coupe, since it holds the aromas together and lets the bubbles rise.

When opening, keep the cork under your hand and turn the bottle, not the cork. If you hear a sigh rather than a pop, you've done it right. That way the carbon dioxide stays in the wine and nothing foams over.