Whiskey & Food

At the Brown Hotel in Louisville, chef Fred Schmidt invented a dish for hungry dance-hall guests in the 1920s. He called it the Hot Brown. The open-faced sandwich platter of turkey breast, bacon, and hot Mornay sauce is browned to a golden finish under the grill. A mild bourbon like the one from Frankfort pairs well with it. Its vanilla note holds its own against the rich sauce without overwhelming it.

Things turn sweet with Derby Pie. The tart combines walnuts, chocolate chips, and a splash of bourbon in the batter; the name has been trademarked since 1989. Since a spoonful of bourbon is already baked into the pie, the dessert can easily handle another glass alongside it. A bourbon with a noticeable rye content pairs best, its spice standing up to the sweetness of chocolate and nut.

Burgoo is the counterpart to both. The thick stew requires at least three kinds of meat, usually beef, pork, and chicken or game, plus plenty of vegetables. It often simmers for over twelve hours on low heat. Traditionally, it's served from enormous kettles at fairs and around the Kentucky Derby.

A delicate bourbon doesn't suit such a hearty stew. Better suited is one with a higher rye content and cask strength, such as those bottled by distilleries between Lawrenceburg and Bardstown. The whiskey's spice cuts through the fat of the three meats. It works much like a robust red wine alongside a braised dish.

Between Louisville, Bardstown, and Lawrenceburg, the dinner table shows exactly what defines the region. Sweetness from corn and wood meets hearty, often open-fire-cooked cuisine. Both sides grow from the same farms and rivers.