Tasting

What does Saison Dupont taste like? Dry, lively, and spicy, with citrus peel, pepper, and a faintly yeasty aroma. The head is dense and white, the color a hazy golden hue, and the beer finishes bitter-dry, so the next sip comes naturally.

At Silly, it's worth looking at the Double Enghien, a darker beer from the brewery that, according to Silly, is based on a top-fermented dark beer. It represents the malty, less peppery side of Hainaut.

Chimay Rouge shows what a dubbel tastes like: raisin, plum, a touch of spice, finishing gently dry. The Blanche is paler and, with its hop character, comes across as fresher, yet also stronger. Tasting both side by side makes the difference between dark malt and light candi sugar quickly apparent. Both show why Trappist beer is considered its own category in Belgium.

The right glass is a wide tulip or a chalice, since the bulbous body collects aroma and supports the thick head. A good rule of thumb is a temperature between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius — cool, but not ice cold, or the aromas disappear.

When pouring, tilt the glass, pour slowly, and leave the yeast sediment in the bottle. The beer can handle a good head, and Chimay sells its bottles with corks that you hold down with your thumb until they loosen. The last bit in the bottle is either stirred into the glass with the sediment or left behind, depending on whether you prefer it hazy or clear.