Tasting

A Schwarzbier from Neuzelle smells, on first whiff, of bread, cocoa, and a hint of caramel. Then comes a mild sweetness, supported by the invert sugar, and finally a short, dry bitterness. Many expect smoke and coffee as in a stout, but instead find a soft, easy-drinking beer.

For comparison, three beers from the region stand up well against each other. Schwarzer Abt from Klosterbrauerei Neuzelle for the dark Schwarzbier, Lausitzer Porter from Bergquell Brewery in Löbau for the heartier side, and a lager from Landskron in Görlitz, to taste how the pale counterpart performs after long cellar aging. For something more adventurous, try a beer from Spreewälder Privatbrauerei 1788 in Schlepzig.

For Schwarzbier, a tulip glass or a tall Pilsner glass works well, since the foam stays stable and the dark body shows nicely. Porter tastes better from a glass with a rounded bowl, which helps concentrate the roasted aromas. A mug suits either, but it hides the color.

Temperature makes the difference. Dark beers taste best at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius—warmer than a Pils. Served too cold, the bread and cocoa notes disappear, leaving only bitterness. When tasting a Porter, let it sit in the glass for a few minutes.

When pouring, tilt the glass and let the beer run down the side. Once the glass is about two-thirds full, straighten it and let the head build. This produces a creamy, fine-bubbled foam that traps the aroma. Wait another minute, and you'll have a beer that's had time to settle.