Food & Beer Culture

In Düsseldorf, Altbier calls for hearty food, and the city has its own answer to what pairs best: mustard. Düsseldorf mustard is popularly known as Mostert and is sharp enough to stand up to the bitter beer. It features in Senfrostbraten, a seasoned cut of meat with a mustard crust, one of the classics of the Old Town pubs.

Rheinischer Sauerbraten, a roast marinated in vinegar and spices, also appears regularly on the table, its acidity and sweetness carried well by the malt in the Alt. The dry bitterness also pairs nicely with Reibekuchen, crispy potato pancakes served with apple sauce. Order blood sausage with mashed potatoes and apple sauce here, and it's called "Himmel un Ähd."

The Köbes is the waiter in the brewery pub, his name being the Rhenish short form of Jakob. He usually wears a blue apron and brings the next glass unasked, until the guest places the beer coaster on top of the glass. Fail to do that, and you'll be topped up again — each glass gets marked with a tally on the coaster. The tone at the table is gruff but warm, and quick wit comes with the job.

Celebrations happen all year round: during Carnival, at the Rheinkirmes fair in summer, at shooting-club festivals, and at the Old Town's autumn market. Walking along Ratinger Straße on a nice day, you'll often see children doing cartwheels — the Düsseldorf cartwheeler is the city's emblem. Moderation is part of the culture, and the small 0.25-liter glasses ensure everyone drinks at their own pace.