Food & Beer Culture

What is Nyama Choma? The name means roasted meat in Swahili. It's usually goat, sometimes beef, lamb, or chicken. The meat is seasoned with salt and lemon, slow-grilled over charcoal, and cut into pieces. On the side comes Ugali, a firm maize porridge, and Kachumbari, a fresh salad of tomatoes and onions.

In Nairobi, Tusker is the traditional pairing for Nyama Choma. The lager is light and cold, clearing the palate after the rich, smoky meat. The acidity of the tomatoes and the mild bitterness of the beer complement each other well. Diners take a bit of Ugali, press it into a small ball, and dip it into the sauce.

Nyama Choma is a meal for groups. People go together to celebrate a birthday, a graduation, or a bachelor party, ordering a platter for the whole table. A butcher often carves the meat right in front of the guests. At weddings, tradition holds that the groom cuts it in front of everyone.

Kenya's beer culture runs deep and varied. There's the bottled lager at the bar, the home-brewed Busaa shared in community, the craft beers of small brewers, and, set apart from all of these, the distilled spirit Chang'aa. Part of understanding this culture is knowing that alcohol is regulated in Kenya, and authorities warn against home-distilled drinks.

For a first taste, a visit to a grill is enough. Order meat by weight, wait patiently, and eat with your hands. The beer stays in a supporting role: part of the meal and the gathering, not a contest of drinking.