Tasting

At a taproom in Ensenada, you'll usually be offered a flight first: four to six small glasses featuring different beers. This lets you taste how a pale lager differs from a stout or an IPA without committing to a full glass of each.

Typical examples include Tecate as the border town's lager, Agua Mala and Wendlandt as craft pioneers in Ensenada, and Cucapá from Mexicali. From Tijuana come beers from Cervecería Tijuana and Border Psycho. Details on strength and bitterness appear on the label or on the brewery's chalkboard.

Mexican lager tastes best served very cold, around 4°C (39°F). At that temperature, it feels refreshing, almost neutral, with a light sweetness. An IPA can handle a bit more warmth, around 7 to 10°C (45 to 50°F), since that's when the citrus and resin aromas really open up.

The go-to glass in a taproom is the pint glass, or a tulip glass for stronger beers. Lager, on the other hand, often comes in a can, and many Mexicans rim the edge with lime and salt. It's poured with plenty of carbonation, with a head that should stand about two fingers tall and fade quickly.

A simple order helps when tasting: start light, move to something stronger, and finish with the bitterest beer. Water and a few tortilla chips in between help cleanse the palate. Drink slowly, and you'll notice how temperature and aroma shift in the glass, quickly discovering which style suits you best.