Food & Beer Culture

What is a Francesinha? A baked, cheese-covered sandwich that made Porto famous. Between slices of white bread lie ham, sausage, and steak, topped with melting cheese. The whole thing sits in a sauce of tomato, beer, and broth, often served with a fried egg and fries on the side.

According to the popular account, it was invented in the 1950s by the chef Daniel David da Silva. He had returned from France and Belgium, where he'd come to know the croque-monsieur. At the restaurant A Regaleira, he reworked it into a heartier dish with Portuguese ingredients. Francesinha means "little French girl."

Why does a cold lager pair so well with it? The sauce is heavy, spicy, and rich, and the light, crisp beer cuts through that richness. A Fino often isn't enough for the job, which is why many reach for a Caneca instead.

The residents of Porto call themselves Tripeiros, tripe-eaters, after Tripas à moda do Porto, a tripe dish made with white beans. Legend has it that in 1415 they gave up the good meat to the fleet of Henry the Navigator and kept only the offal for themselves.

On the night of June 24th, Porto celebrates São João. People eat grilled sardines on bread, wash it down with lager, and bop each other on the head with soft plastic hammers. The streets along the river stay packed until morning.

Day to day, the beer is drunk in cafés or cervejarias, often standing at the counter and served in small glasses. A round there means several Finos.