Tasting

In the glass, a Gotlandsdricka smells of smoke and juniper, like a forest path after a campfire. On the palate, a noticeable sweetness follows, along with the spice of the berries, finishing with a light bitterness. The body is full, with the hops staying in the background.

It's drunk young, often while still fermenting. As a result, the beer can be lightly fizzy with a hint of sweetness, depending on the age of the batch. Home brewers say it should be finished within two weeks. Serving it just below room temperature lets the smoke and juniper come through better than drinking it ice-cold.

Anyone wanting to taste it in Visby should head to Gotlands Bryggeri. The brewery sits within the city walls and, according to the island's tourism website, offers tours with a beer tasting. On offer are the Wisby Klosteröl, the house's first beer, and the Wisby Stout—both brewery beers, not Gotlandsdricka.

Genuine Gotlandsdricka is hard to come by, since it's a farmhouse beer that's difficult to produce commercially. Breweries outside Sweden have brewed their own versions, including Jester King in Texas and Niagara College in Canada. These are interpretations rather than originals, but they show just how far the island beer's reputation has traveled.

A simple glass is all you need for pouring, so you can see the color and cloudiness. The rostbunn has a tap at the bottom, allowing the beer to be drawn off clear of the sediment. Anyone wanting to brew it at home will find plenty of recipes and tips on smoked malt from home brewers and in the Swedish brewing association's wiki.