Hops

Hops give beer both bitterness and aroma, and the two are controlled separately. Cones boiled early in the brew mainly contribute bitterness, while those added late or used as a cold addition contribute aroma. Bitterness is measured in IBU, a scale for bittering units. A Korean lager typically sits at the lower end of that scale—the motto here is more about refreshment than bite.

Hops used for the big beers in Korea are generally imported. The brewery OB names the German variety Perle as the key hop in its OB Golden Lager, a beer with 4.8 percent alcohol. Perle is an aroma hop known for its spicy, lightly floral scent.

Hopping stays restrained in the standard beers from the big breweries. The result is a beer that tastes of malt, rice, and a subtle sweetness, with just a faint bitterness lingering at the very end. Anyone used to German Pils will find it quite mild by comparison.

More hop character can be found in the craft scene, which takes its cues from Western styles. Magpie Brewing was founded by a group of Canadians, Americans, and Koreans who brought beers like IPA and Pale Ale to Seoul. IPA stands for India Pale Ale, a pale-to-amber beer with pronounced hop aroma.

For tasting purposes: a Cass or Hite tastes of grain and freshness, while a Seoul-brewed IPA from Gyeongnidan leans more toward citrus and resin. Both worlds sit just a few subway stops apart in the city.