Water & Soil

The water for Seoul flows from the Han River, which cuts right through the city. The city administration treats it at six waterworks along the river and markets it under the name Arisu. The name dates back to 2004 and revives an old term for the Han from the era of the Goguryeo kingdom: ari means 'great,' su means 'water.'

Beer is overwhelmingly made of water, and its hardness shapes the flavor. Water is considered hard when it contains a lot of dissolved calcium and bicarbonate; such water accentuates bitterness. Soft water lets malt and hops come across lighter and smoother. Brewers can treat water and adjust hardness as needed, which is why even a city of millions doesn't need its own spring to make a good pale lager.

Seoul sits in a valley basin surrounded by mountains like Bukhansan. The climate brings hot, humid summers. In Korea, the rainy season begins in early summer and is known as jangma. Winters turn dry and cold. Especially in summer, people reach for a cold beer.

The big breweries store their beer in chilled tanks—no rock cellars like in Franconia here. What matters is the cold chain all the way to the table. Many venues pour their beer ice-cold, often into pre-chilled glasses, and guests relish that frosty first sip.

Water quality concerns the whole city, not just the brewers. According to the city, Arisu undergoes strict testing and is increasingly promoted in Seoul as drinking water. Just how much of it ends up in any given brew, the breweries rarely reveal.