Food & Beer Culture

What do people eat with beer in South Bohemia? First on the table is whatever the pond country provides. Carp from around Třeboň is the ultimate festive dish here, traditionally baked for Christmas in the Czech Republic. In autumn, the ponds are drained and fished out; the event is called výlov and draws whole families.

A pale lager pairs well with this. Its gentle bitterness cuts through the breading, and the soft malt carries the mild fish. Potato salad goes with the carp, and the beer's carbonation refreshes the palate afterward.

The second pillar is the hearty cooking of the local pubs. Vepřo knedlo zelo—roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut—appears on menus in Budweis just as it does across the country. A South Bohemian specialty is Kulajda, a creamy soup with potatoes, dill, mushrooms and egg, which pairs just as well with a lager.

A must-visit address for beer lovers is Masné krámy in Budweis, a tavern housed in the old town's former meat stalls. It embodies hospoda culture: simple rooms, long tables, and waiters who bring the next beer without being asked. Drinking here is unhurried, and a half-litre often lasts longer than visitors from elsewhere might expect.

The large beer comes in a half litre, the small one in three-tenths of a litre. In Krumau, where the Eggenberg brewery has been privately run since 1991, people sit beneath the castle. Beer there stands less for intoxication than for company, and a single glass often lasts the whole evening.