
Hospoda and Hermelín
Food & Beer Culture
What do people eat with beer in the Czech Republic? In a Central Bohemian Hospoda, the dishes are hearty and thirst-inducing. It starts with the snacks: Nakládaný hermelín is a soft cheese marinated in oil, onions, and spices. Utopenci, the "drowned ones," are pickled sausages with onions and vinegar.
Why does this pair so well with lager? The vinegar and onion need a drink that can stand up to them. The bitterness and carbonation of the lager cut through the fat in the cheese and sausage, refreshing the palate. A dark beer like Kozel Černý, on the other hand, pairs better with goulash and roasts.
Then come the main dishes. Guláš with dumplings, breaded schnitzel, Bramboračka (potato soup with mushrooms), and roasted pork or beef can be found in every tavern. The beer practically substitutes for gravy, as guests dip, drink, and eat in turns, stretching the evening at the Hospoda comfortably over several hours.
Kutná Hora is worth a visit even without the beer. The town grew rich on silver in the Middle Ages and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. The Hospodas lining its lanes fill up after the day's sightseeing, and since 2017, the town has had its own brewery once again with the Měšťanský pivovar.
And the serving sizes? The half-liter is standard. Those wanting less order the smaller glass, the Malé. When toasting, Czechs say "Na zdraví," to your health, while looking each other in the eye.