Region & History

Raki on Crete is not an anise spirit like Turkish Rakı. On the island, the word refers to Tsikoudia, a clear pomace brandy made from the leftovers of the wine press, tasting of grape and containing no anise. Ask for Raki in Chania, Rethymno, or Heraklion, and this is the spirit you'll be poured.

Tsikoudia is a product of thrift. Pressing wine leaves behind skins, seeds, and stems, and from these leftovers, winegrowing families crafted a second drink that could be stored and given as a gift. Nobody knows exactly when this began on Crete.

The name is now protected. In the EU register of geographical indications for spirits, Tsikoudia of Crete is listed as a pomace brandy, and according to the technical file, the term Tsikoudia in Greece applies to brandy produced on Crete. It is described as colorless, clear, and shaped by the aromas of the grape varieties used.

Distilling in Greece requires a permit. Villages on Crete report that one or two licensed distillers fire up their Kazani, the copper still, in autumn for the whole neighborhood to use. In Germany, by contrast, distilling without a license is forbidden, even with your own pomace.

Throughout the EU, pomace brandy must have an alcoholic strength of at least 37.5 percent. Within this framework, the island's strength lies less in big brands than in the closeness to village, vineyard, and the distiller you know by name.

A simple test tells Raki and Ouzo apart. Add a splash of water to Ouzo or Turkish Rakı, and the liquid turns milky as the anise oil separates out. Cretan Tsikoudia stays clear.