Tasting

Grappa is tasted with the nose first, then the mouth. Only a finger's width goes into a nosing glass or small tulip glass, since the narrow opening concentrates the aromas and tempers the alcohol, which at 40 percent and above would otherwise overwhelm the nose. A wide-bowled glass lets the best aromas escape before you even take the first sniff.

Temperature also changes the impression. A young grappa bianca usually shows most clearly at around ten to twelve degrees Celsius; at room temperature, the alcohol becomes more pronounced. Aged grappa can be enjoyed warmer, with wood and dried fruit notes unfolding at around 16 to 18 degrees. A heavily chilled glass, however, mutes the aroma, since cold air carries scent molecules poorly.

Typical of a young grappa from the Veneto are notes of grape skin, hay, almond, and white blossom, dry and slightly bitter on the palate, with a warm finish. Made from Glera pomace, it can be more floral and delicate; from Merlot and Cabernet, more earthy and robust. An invecchiata adds vanilla, caramel, and spice.

For comparison, the two major houses of the town make an excellent pairing. Nardini in Bassano offers both clear grappa bianca and aged bottlings, representing the house's direct, robust style. Poli in Schiavon, according to its own account, works with old copper stills in batch operation and likewise offers both clear and wood-aged lines.

Small sips are all you need when tasting. First the nose, then a drop on the tongue, then water to cleanse the palate, and a pause. This reveals how the grappa changes from the attack through the midpalate to the finish. Tasting is about recognizing aroma and style, not drinking in quantity.