Tasting

For tasting, it's best to set two glasses side by side: a Blended Applejack and a Straight Apple Brandy, both from Laird & Company. Even on the nose, it becomes clear how far apart they are. The blend smells of fresh apple and a bit of wood, while the Bonded apple brandy is denser, with cooked fruit, vanilla, and toasted notes.

On the palate, Applejack opens with a mild, almost sweet fruit that fades quickly. The Straight Apple Brandy, at 50 percent alcohol, feels more powerful, but opens up if you let a small sip travel across the tongue. A drop of water is welcome—it unlocks the aromas without drowning them out. Start with the lightest glass, the Pear Brandy, then the Blended Applejack, and finish with the Bonded brandy. That way the palate stays fresh for the denser aromas.

A good third comparison is a pear brandy from Oregon, such as Clear Creek Distillery's Pear Brandy, which stays crystal clear without barrel aging. It shows how different a fruit brandy tastes without the wood: fruit, blossom, and a clean, dry line.

Swirl the glass only gently and smell first with your mouth open, then with it closed. A nosing glass or small tulip glass, narrower at the top than in the middle, works best for assessment. That way the aromas concentrate, and the nose picks up more than in a wide tumbler. A tumbler is fine for Blended Applejack in a cocktail, but not for proper tasting.

On temperature: room temperature beats cold. Chilling mutes the fruit notes, and with the aged brandies especially, all that's left then is alcohol and wood. Give yourself a little time before judging, and jot down what strikes you in the first few minutes.