Brandy Style

Applejack isn't a single, uniform spirit—it's a word that covers two different bottles. The first is Blended Applejack: a mix of aged apple brandy and neutral spirit, at Laird & Company in a ratio of 35 to 65, according to the house. The second is Straight Apple Brandy, made exclusively from apples.

In the glass, the difference becomes clear fast. Blended Applejack tastes lighter, smoother, and noticeably more restrained in apple character, but it mixes well. Straight Apple Brandy shows baked apple, charred oak, and a warmth that lingers longer. It's the relative of Calvados, not of vodka. The name Jersey Lightning fits better with the young, unaged brandy of earlier days; it has little in common, in the glass, with an aged Straight Apple Brandy.

Under EU law, the blend wouldn't have a place in the category "spirit drink made from cider," since no alcohol may be added there. In the US, different labeling rules apply, which aren't covered here. A glance at the label remains useful: if it says Blended, neutral spirit is involved. The profile below shows the Bonded brandy, since its alcohol content and age can be confirmed from the house's press statements.

Compared to Calvados, American apple brandy differs in its barrel and in the freedom it allows itself. It has no appellation, no prescribed blend of varieties, and no minimum aging period set by law. That's why the name Applejack says little on its own—the producer says far more.

As an outlook, there's the West. California stands for brandy made from grapes, Oregon for fruit brandies in the European style, such as Clear Creek Distillery's pear brandy. Both belong to a separate story that shares with New Jersey only the name America.