Tasting

What does Barbados rum taste like when tasted neat? Mostly soft and round, with vanilla and caramel, plus dried fruit, orange peel and baking spice. The oak note is noticeable but rarely bitter. This holds true for many bottlings, though not every one, since cask finishing shifts the picture.

Three examples from Foursquare show the range. The Exceptional Cask Selection series, ECS for short, thrives on casks and finishes. Doorly's 12 is a twelve-year-old rum from the same house and shows the classic style. R.L. Seale's carries the family name and represents the rum known at the bar on the island.

A nosing glass or a tulip-shaped glass concentrates the aroma, while a wide tumbler lets it escape. Room temperature is sufficient; chilled, the aromas close up. Those starting out neat should take small sips first and let the rum work in the mouth before checking the aroma on the finish.

A few drops of water open up the rum. In higher-proof bottlings, they release fruit aromas and soften the sharpness. The ratio is a matter of taste; adding one drop at a time and nosing in between is a sensible approach.

Those who enjoy comparisons can set two Barbados rums side by side, say one matured in bourbon casks and one with a Port cask finish. The difference then lies almost entirely in the wood, since the underlying distillate remains related. Having some bread or a piece of dark chocolate on hand lets you taste how the sweetness and bitterness of the oak shift on the tongue.