Tasting

What does White Overproof from Jamaica taste like? First, alcohol, since at 63% it quickly numbs the nose. Behind that, given time, comes overripe fruit with a funky note typical of pot-still character.

A good example is Wray & Nephew White Overproof, an everyday staple in Jamaica and also a benchmark. For comparison, Rum Fire from Hampden Estate works well, a rum from the pot-still house in Trelawny. As a counterpoint, Pusser's, a Navy blend from Tortola, serves well too.

A nosing glass or a tulip-shaped glass with a narrow opening works best. Serve the rum at room temperature, around 18 to 20°C. When you first nose the glass, keep your nose about a hand's width above the rim.

At this strength, water helps. A few drops open up the aroma and soften the bite. Neat, it's best tasted only in very small sips.

Lining up the glasses side by side reveals just how differently strength plays out. The six-percentage-point gap between 57% and 63% is clearly noticeable on the tongue. With overproof rum, it's worth nosing the glass first and keeping the first sip small, so the fruit doesn't get lost under the bite. Brief notes help when comparing impressions later.

When comparing several rums, start with the weakest. The Navy blend, at around 57%, comes before the overproof, and water sits between the glasses to cleanse the palate.