Tasting

What does St. Lucian rum taste like? An aged blend from the island distillery tends to be soft and round: vanilla and caramel from the bourbon cask, plus dried fruit and a light toasted note that gains body from the pot-still component. On first taste, what stands out most is how little bite it has.

The first example to try is Chairman's Reserve Forgotten Casks, bottled at 40% ABV and blended, according to the distillery, from bourbon-cask rums aged several years. It's the ideal starting point for anyone wanting to get to know the island's style. Standing in contrast is Chairman's Spiced Original, where cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, allspice and orange peel take the lead, with the rum base staying more in the background.

Another house label is Admiral Rodney, named after the British admiral who defeated the French at the Battle of the Saintes in 1782. The 1931 series, meanwhile, pays tribute to the Dennery distillery through a rotating cast of releases. For comparison, line up two of them and pay attention to sweetness, oak character and the length of the finish.

The right glass is a tulip or nosing glass that concentrates the aromas; a tumbler is only a second choice. Room temperature around 18-20°C (64-68°F) is ideal, since chilling mutes the aromas. Nose it first without plunging your nose deep into the glass, then take a small sip and let it sit in the mouth for a moment.

Neat or with water? A few drops of water can open up the rum, though at 40% ABV they make little difference. Spiced rum doesn't need water at all; it works well with a splash of lime or in a long drink.