Tasting

English sparkling wine from Sussex usually tastes of lemon, green apple and fresh bread, with a chalky austerity underneath. Acidity leads, and the mousse is fine. The longer the wine has rested on the lees, the more brioche, almond and toast come through. A Blanc de Blancs tastes leaner and more citrusy, a Blanc de Noirs rounder and fuller, with hints of strawberry and cherry.

A look at individual bottles helps place them. Ridgeview Bloomsbury is a blend with plenty of Chardonnay, while the house's Blanc de Noirs shows red berries. Rathfinny Classic Cuvée comes solely from grapes grown on the estate. Nyetimber Classic Cuvée is a multi-vintage blend with more than three years on the lees.

That the origin is taken seriously is shown by an award: at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2010, Ridgeview won the title for the world's best sparkling wine, the first wine that wasn't Champagne to do so.

A tulip glass or a narrow white wine glass suits the wine better than a flat coupe, since the aromas gather and rise, and the bubbles last longer. It should be chilled to around six to eight degrees Celsius. Warmer, sweetness and alcohol come forward; colder, the wine closes up.

When opening, turn the bottle and keep the cork still. This lets the wine release its pressure quietly, with nothing spilling over. Loosen the wire cage first, keeping your hand over the cork throughout.