Tasting

What does Crémant d'Alsace taste like? Usually fresh and round at the same time. A white Brut made from Pinot blanc and Auxerrois smells of green apple, a touch of pear, and citrus zest, with a hint of brioche from the lees aging. The acidity is noticeable but mild, and the bubbles are fine, leaning soft rather than sharp.

One example is the Crémant d'Alsace Brut from the Wolfberger cooperative, bottled in Eguisheim. It showcases the classic Alsatian blend: plenty of fruit, little harshness, an easy-drinking sparkling wine. With Riesling in the blend it becomes leaner and more citrusy; with more Pinot gris, broader and spicier.

The Crémant Rosé from Dopff au Moulin in Riquewihr is, according to the estate, made entirely from Pinot noir. In the glass it shows a pale salmon-pink hue, on the nose cherry and strawberry, and on the palate a soft, fruity body. Here, rosé never tastes sweet—rather, it tastes of ripe berries with a dry finish.

It's best served well chilled, around 6 to 8°C (43 to 46°F). Too cold suppresses the aromas, too warm makes it taste flat. It tastes best from a tulip-shaped glass, which gathers both aroma and bubbles. A flat coupe lets both escape too quickly.

When opening, hold the bottle at an angle, keep one hand on the cork, and turn the bottle rather than the cork. That way the gas escapes with a quiet sigh rather than a loud pop. When pouring, fill the glass only two-thirds full and wait for the foam to settle.