Tasting

A glass of Brut from Perrier-Jouët smells different from one by Pol Roger, and the difference lies in the blend. Perrier-Jouët uses a high proportion of Chardonnay, which comes through as citrus, apple, and white blossom. The prestige cuvée Belle Époque has featured white Japanese anemones on the bottle since 1964, based on a design by Émile Gallé from 1902.

Pol Roger's Brut Réserve ages, according to the house, for at least three years and comes across as well-balanced, with notes of pastry and citrus. Moët & Chandon builds its Brut Impérial on reserve wines, which gives it that round, fruity fullness. Dom Pérignon's vintage develops over the years into nutty, toasty aromas.

For Champagne, a tulip-shaped glass is recommended over the flat coupe. The coupe disperses the bubbles and aromas quickly into the air, while the tulip concentrates them. The glass should be tall enough to give the foam room, and only filled halfway.

Champagne tastes best at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius. Too cold, and the aromas stay closed off; too warm, and the bubbles turn coarse. Opening the bottle should be quiet: loosen the foil and wire cage, place your thumb on the cork, and turn the bottle rather than the cork. The goal is a gentle hiss, not a loud pop. When tasting several wines side by side, start with the non-vintage Brut and finish with the vintage, so the bolder aromas don't overpower the more delicate ones.