Tasting

A Crémant du Jura Brut made from Chardonnay is usually delicate and fine rather than weighty. It smells of apple and fresh pastry, and on the palate a nutty note joins in, which comes from the long lees aging. The rosé often tastes of small red berries, and the perlage is fine and persistent.

For comparison, houses of the appellation are a good place to start: the Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois with its Crémant du Jura Brut, or Domaine Rolet from Arbois. In Savoy, Jean Perrier et Fils is one example of a Crémant de Savoie.

Crémant de Savoie generally comes across as lighter: bright fruit, floral aroma, lively acidity. It is the Jacquère share in particular that keeps it slender.

A tulip glass suits it better than a flat coupe, because aroma and bubbles gather there. Well chilled, it tastes best at around seven to nine degrees; too much cold dulls aroma and fruit.

When opening, hold the bottle at an angle, loosen the wire cage, hold the cork firmly and turn the bottle slowly. The cork should come out with a soft hiss, not a bang.

A set order helps when tasting: first hold the glass at an angle against bright light and look at the bubbles, then smell, then drink. At the first sip, ask yourself whether the acidity feels taut or soft, whether the mousse is creamy, and how long the flavor lasts. It works well as an aperitif, because the acidity whets the appetite.