Grape Varieties

Which grapes go into Crémant de Loire? The list is long: Chenin and Chardonnay on the white side, Cabernet franc, Cabernet sauvignon and Pineau d'Aunis on the red. In the Saumurois, Chenin is used most often, frequently blended with a touch of Cabernet.

Chenin is the signature grape here, and for good reason. Even at full ripeness it retains plenty of acidity, carries aromas of quince, apple and white flowers, and develops a hazelnut note during lees aging. Its freshness makes it a reliable base wine for sparkling production, precisely because it doesn't rely on richness.

Cabernet franc supplies the red side of the equation. Its grapes produce the region's rosés, scented with raspberry and a hint of green pepper. The same variety also produces serious still red wine along the Loire, though that story belongs to the still-wine journey. For rosé, what matters most is the brevity of skin contact: the shorter the berries soak in the must, the paler and finer the color turns out.

Pineau d'Aunis, locally also called Chenin noir, contributes a subtle peppery note. It's rare, but it shows just how much latitude winemakers have in blending. Chardonnay rounds out the wine where Chenin alone might feel too angular.

Saumur brut opens the blend even further. Alongside Chenin, Chardonnay, the two Cabernets and Pineau d'Aunis, Sauvignon blanc is also permitted here, whether as a single variety or in blend. How much of it ends up in the glass is up to each house's style, which is why Saumur brut tastes different from producer to producer.

Why these particular varieties? All of them retain plenty of acidity and low sugar when picked early, and they cope well with the Loire's cool, changeable weather. The sparkling wine here grew naturally out of whatever was already planted in the vineyard.