Tasting

What does Saumur brut taste like? It has aromas of white fruit, lemon balm, hazelnut and toasted almonds, with a fresh, crisp palate and fine, creamy bubbles.

The great houses Bouvet-Ladubay, Gratien & Meyer and Ackerman all produce Saumur brut and Crémant de Loire. Their wines differ in blend and lees-aging time, so it's worth comparing two bottles side by side. A Crémant de Loire Rosé made mostly from Cabernet franc smells of raspberry and redcurrant, while a white with plenty of Chenin leans more toward quince, apple and blossom.

A word on glassware: the flat coupe lets both bubbles and aroma escape too quickly; a tulip glass or a white wine glass with a narrow opening works much better. In these shapes, the aromas rise properly, and the bubbles climb steadily in fine, delicate chains.

On temperature: in the tuffeau cellar the wine rests at twelve degrees Celsius, but on the table it should be cooler, around six to eight degrees. Too cold, and the aromas stay closed; too warm, and the acidity turns flabby while the bubbles become too aggressive.

When opening, hold the bottle at an angle, release the wire cage, and keep one hand firmly over the cork. Then turn the bottle slowly—not the cork—and let the pressure escape with a quiet sigh. It should sigh, not pop, because a loud pop releases carbon dioxide and causes the wine to foam over.

When tasting two wines side by side, pour the drier one first. A Saumur brut served before a half-dry Crémant shows most clearly just how much sugar the dosage adds to the final wine.