Tasting

Chenin as sparkling wine smells of quince, green apple, chamomile and lemon, joined by notes of brioche and something chalky. On the palate it stays taut, with acidity as its backbone, and often finishes with a hint of honey. Anyone used to Champagne made with Pinot noir will find a very different fruit character here.

Marc Brédif bottles a Brut from Vouvray, a classic example of the appellation's mousseux style. From Montlouis comes the Pétillant Originel by La Grange Tiphaine, labeled Nouveau Nez, along with one from Le Rocher des Violettes. Both wines show just how soft and dry a wine without dosage can taste.

Mousseux sparkles finely and lingers, while pétillant is looser and shorter-lived. Which glass suits them best? A tulip glass, rounded at the bottom and tapering slightly at the top, lets aroma and bubbles come together. A flat coupe lets both escape too quickly, which is why it's rarely used these days. A standard white wine glass also works well for Pét-Nat, since its bubbles are softer.

Serve well chilled, around 45 to 48°F (7 to 9°C). Too cold suppresses the aroma, too warm makes the foam boil over. Once taken from the fridge, let the bottle rest for ten minutes before opening so the pressure settles.

Opening calls for a steady hand. With mousseux, pressure can reach up to 6 bar: thumb over the cork, tilt the bottle, and ease the cork out with a gentle twist rather than a pull. A Pét-Nat with lees can be more unpredictable when opened. Go slowly, and keep a glass or container at the ready.

When comparing styles, taste the dry Pét-Nat first, then the mousseux, and finish with a Demi-sec. Otherwise the sweeter wine will overpower the palate, making the dry one seem sharper than it really is.