Wine & Food

In Hobart, ingredients don't travel far. Rarely does anything on the table come from further than an hour's drive: salmon from the fjords of the Huon Valley, oysters from Bruny Island, and in winter, black truffles from around Deloraine. Tasmania cooks regionally. Almost everything grows or swims right on its own doorstep.

Dry sparkling wine is the best match. With cured or lightly grilled salmon, it beats any still white wine, since the fine carbon dioxide cuts through the fish's fat, while the acidity of the base wines balances the oiliness without masking the delicate flavour. Chardonnay works too. A glass from the Coal River Valley pairs almost as well when the salmon comes off the grill rather than served raw.

Oysters are best enjoyed pure. From Bruny Island, they're preferred with at most a squeeze of lemon, paired with the same sparkling wine served alongside the salmon, since its salinity mirrors that of the sea. The same island also makes cheese. Creamy with a washed rind, it demands a more robust wine, such as a mature Pinot Noir with enough fruit to stand up to its pungency.

Truffles joined the mix in 1999. On 18 June that year, truffle farmers near Deloraine dug up Australia's first black truffle, following eight years of groundwork with specially inoculated trees, a milestone for the whole of Australian cuisine. Today it accompanies winter dishes. Shaved over pasta or risotto, it pairs well with a Pinot Noir with just enough age to develop undergrowth aromas that embrace the truffle's scent rather than competing with it.