Wine & Food

The cuisine of Friuli carries Austrian and Slavic traces, visible on every plate in a way found nowhere else in Italy. Frico is the prime example: grated potatoes, onions, and plenty of Montasio cheese, fried in a pan into a crispy crust. Soft inside, almost like a chip outside.

A Friulano suits this rich, salty dish better than any full-bodied red. Its acidity cuts through the melted fat, and the bitter almond finish acts almost as a counterweight to the mild Montasio, making the next bite feel appetizing all over again.

San Daniele, the cured ham from the town of the same name at the foothills of the Alps, calls for less acidity and more freshness. A young Ribolla Gialla, classically vinified without skin contact, brings out the ham's mild sweetness without overpowering its delicate fat. A robust red wine would simply crush it.

In winter, Jota comes to the table, a thick stew of sauerkraut beans, potatoes, and bacon with a distinct Austrian influence, cooked from Trieste all the way to the Carnic Alps. A young Refosco pairs well here, with just enough acidity to stand up to the sauerkraut and enough fruit to keep the richness of the bacon from feeling too heavy.

To finish, there's Gubana, a snail-shaped pastry filled with walnuts, raisins, and a splash of grappa, traditionally baked for Christmas and Easter. Only one wine belongs here: Picolit, poured sparingly. Sweet enough to match the pastry, yet with enough acidity to keep it from tasting merely syrupy.