Wine & Food

The Huchen, a large predatory fish from the salmon family, lives in cool, fast-flowing rivers like the Traisen. It's considered rare in Central Europe today, with some populations even endangered. What appears on the menus of the valley's inns today therefore usually comes from controlled farming.

It's typically served simply: briefly pan-fried, with brown butter and a few herbs, letting the firm, slightly sweet flesh speak for itself. A Grüner Veltliner from the valley suits it better than any more elaborate wine: its acidity cuts through the butter, its pepper complements the herbs without overwhelming the delicate fish.

Away from the river, along the Traisental Wine Route, a heartier cuisine dominates, one that knows no hurry. Caraway pork roast, crispy with whole caraway seeds baked into the crust, sits alongside blood sausage and pork cracklings on bread. This is hearty home cooking aimed at filling you up, not at finesse.

This is exactly where Riesling from the Traisental shows what it can do. Its acidity holds its own against the fattiness of the pork roast. Its stony minerality provides a counterweight to the earthy caraway. A soft, mild white wine would simply disappear next to this food.

Between the fish dish and the pork roast lies the whole character of the valley: fast-flowing, cool water on one side, heavy soils and hearty cooking on the other. Both call for a wine with backbone. Both get it here, right on their own doorstep.