Wine & Food

Every barbecue begins at the foot of the vineyards. Mici are rolls of seasoned ground meat. They come entirely without casing. Made from a mix of beef, lamb, and pork, the finger-thick rolls are grilled over charcoal until the crust turns dark while the center stays juicy, served with mustard, fresh white bread, and pickled vegetables — simple food that calls for a robust wine.

This is exactly where Fetească Neagră comes into play. Its firm tannins cut through the fat. Smoke and spice reinforce each other. A young, fruit-forward vintage suits this better than a long-aged one, whose leather and tobacco notes would nearly get lost next to the pepper and hint of clove in the smoke of the grill, while fresh fruit stands up well to the smoke.

Sunday meals often bring Sarmale to the table. Cabbage leaves are stuffed with ground meat and rice. They're braised for hours. Served with sour cream and a side of cornmeal porridge, the dish's denser, braised character calls for a wine with some age, one whose tannins have already softened and whose acidity still cuts through the fat of the sour cream.

At the other end of the table sits Telemea. It's a salty brined cheese. No red wine suits it. Telemea made from sheep's or cow's milk belongs on the breakfast table across Muntenia, and what pairs with it instead is a dry Tămâioasă Românească from Pietroasele, whose floral sweetness in the nose balances the cheese's saltiness, while its acidity keeps the milky aftertaste clean.