Tasting

On the back label of many Finger Lakes Rieslings you'll find a narrow scale running from Dry to Sweet, with a marker showing exactly where that wine falls. The scale comes from the International Riesling Foundation and has caught on so widely in the region that almost no producer sells without it. Great Western simply sold its sparkling wine in the 19th century as sweet or dry. Without today's indicator, you'd often have to guess at the point of purchase.

What matters most about this scale is what it doesn't show: acidity. A Finger Lakes Riesling labeled Medium Dry often tastes less sweet than a dry wine from warmer regions. The reason lies in the cool nights over the lakes: they preserve so much acidity in the grape that it practically devours the sweetness. Anyone who fixates on the word Sweet on the label alone misses this effect entirely.

Swirl the glass, and the first aromas are almost always green apple and freshly peeled lime. Dry rarely means bland here. Sometimes, especially in aged vintages, a smoky note creeps in that reminds many tasters of a struck match. On the palate, a Riesling from Seneca Lake stands out for its acidity above all—almost radiant—keeping the wine fresh even when a good amount of residual sugar is in play.

Red wines from the region taste leaner than many expect. Cabernet Franc from the slopes above Cayuga Lake shows green bell pepper, red currant, and a tannin that barely scrapes the palate. Serve it a touch cooler than a full-bodied red, and it comes across as precise rather than thin. The ice wine that closes out a tasting tastes of apricot, honey, and candied citrus peel, concentrated to the edge. Yet it never turns cloying, because acidity carries through here too.