Tasting

Start by pouring yourself an Amrut Fusion, a blend of Indian and imported Scottish barley. Hold your nose only briefly over the glass, or the alcohol will bite quickly. Citrus and black pepper arrive first, followed by a hint of campfire smoke and dark caramel. It feels far denser than you'd expect from a still-young whisky. Only after a few breaths does the glass reveal its full depth.

Those after more smoke should reach for the Amrut Peated Cask Strength. At around 62.8 percent alcohol, it's considerably stronger than most standard Scotch bottlings. At this strength, a splash of water is worthwhile. The point isn't to dilute the whisky, but to open up the aromas that would otherwise hide behind the alcohol. If you don't have a cask-strength bottling on hand, you'll find similar spice in the standard Amrut Peated.

Paul John's Brilliance shows just how different Goa tastes. Guava, honeydew melon, honey, and vanilla take centre stage. The sharpness stays restrained, and the overall impression feels softer and rounder than Amrut's. Between the two houses lies an entire spectrum of Indian whisky, from Bangalore's heat to Goa's humid coastal air. Taste both whiskies one after another, and you'll notice the difference between plateau and coast almost without thinking about it.

For getting started, a simple nosing glass with a narrow opening is enough. It concentrates the aromas without driving too much alcohol into the nose. Many Indian single malts mature warmer than their Scottish counterparts. It's therefore worth trying them at room temperature rather than ice-cold, otherwise the finer fruit notes tend to disappear. That way, what's left in the glass is more than just the alcohol.