Tasting

Three glasses lined up side by side show fastest just how broad Highland whisky can taste. A Glenmorangie tastes bright, floral and lightly citrusy. That's almost the opposite of a heavy, sherry-driven Dalmore, with notes of orange, nut and dark fruit. In between sits an Old Pulteney from Wick, salty, with a hint of iodine that recalls the North Sea right outside the distillery door.

Anyone wanting to try all three is best off pouring small measures into a tulip-shaped nosing glass and nosing before tasting. A few drops of still water can often open up aromas that stay locked away when the whisky is tasted neat, especially with higher-proof cask strength bottlings. Between samples, a sip of water and a piece of bread help reset the palate.

A good starting point is a Glenmorangie Original at ten years old, fruity and easy to approach. Next comes a Dalmore 12 Year Old, for the region's sherry-driven, spicy side. To get to know the salty coast, reach for an Old Pulteney 12 Year Old. Where available, an Oban 14 Year Old is also well worth it, with its mix of smoke, salt and honey.

These three or four samples reveal more about the range of the Highlands than any description could. Mild and salty, light and heavy can all be tasted side by side here. No other Scottish region covers such a broad flavour spectrum, from the bright citrus notes in the south to the sea air of Wick.