Tasting

Between honey and pepper lies an entire world of flavor across the islands. Highland Park from Orkney opens with heather honey and dried apricots, with just a faint whisper of smoke in the background. Talisker from Skye, on the other hand, comes on with salty bite, pepper, and a noticeably smokier edge. Both sit on the same compass bearing, yet taste almost like opposites.

Just how wide that range can be shows up in a single distillery on Mull. Tobermory itself tastes bright, malty, and lightly citrusy, with no smoke at all. Its sibling Ledaig comes from the very same stills yet turns out powerfully peaty, almost tarry: two whiskies, one house, two worlds.

For a good starting point, try three bottlings from each core range. Highland Park 12 Year Old represents the mild, honey-sweet side, Talisker 10 Year Old the pepper-and-sea side. Tobermory 12 Year Old provides the unpeated, fruity counterpoint. None of these are recommendations to buy, just signposts through the style.

It's best to try it neat first, from a tulip-shaped nosing glass that concentrates the aroma at its narrow opening. Only after a few minutes and your first sip is it worth adding a drop of still water, which opens up the aromas without watering them down. Always nose with your mouth slightly open first; that takes the sharp edge off the alcohol, letting honey, smoke, or salt come through more clearly.

Between these poles, patience pays off, since island whiskies often keep changing even ten minutes after being poured into the glass. Smoke and sweetness only separate gradually.