
Peas and Bacon
Vodka & Food
Gray peas with bacon, Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi in Latvian, are considered by many Latvians to be the country's secret national dish. Hardly a table goes without it at Christmas in particular. The dark gray peas taste firmer and nuttier than green ones. They're mixed with fried bacon and onions and often served alongside a glass of kefir. Restaurants in Riga often deliberately put the dish on their winter menu.
It's served alongside Rupjmaize, the dark, dense rye bread. It's baked with malt and caraway and is considered a staple food of the country. The EU lists the bread as a Protected Traditional Speciality, showing just how firmly it's rooted in Latvian cuisine.
A clear vodka served cold pairs better with the rich, hearty peas and bacon than a sweet liqueur would. It cuts through the fat and freshens the palate for the next bite. Smoked fish, too, such as the famous Riga sprats in oil, goes well with a neutral wheat-rye vodka. The alcohol doesn't mask the smoky flavor, it simply accompanies it. Anyone who tries both together quickly understands why this pairing has held its place on Latvian tables for generations.
Rīgas Melnais Balzams, on the other hand, belongs more at the end of a meal or alongside something sweet. Its bitter herbal profile calls for a quiet moment rather than a hearty plate. Anyone who tries both in one evening quickly understands why Latvians draw a clear line between the two: vodka with the meal, balsam afterward.