Tasting

What does a Gose taste like? Start with the eye: it's pale to golden yellow and lightly hazy, with a head that collapses quickly. On the nose come lemon and coriander, sometimes a hint of bread. The first sip is tart, followed by a touch of salt that makes the mouth water. Thanks to the low bitterness, it finishes soft.

Anyone unsure whether tartness suits their palate can take their cue from examples found in the Harz. The pale Gose from Brauhaus Goslar is, according to the brewery, top-fermented and naturally hazy, mild on the hop and soft and malty. The dark Gose, per the same source, is reddish-brown with a faint smoky-malty character. This isn't a tasting recommendation, just a description from the brewery.

For Pils fans, the Harz offers two counterparts. Hasseröder from Wernigerode is a widely poured regional Pils, found in many pubs throughout the Harz. From the Altenau brewery come, among others, Harzer Dunkel and Harzer Hüttenbier, worth trying as a richer, maltier alternative.

There's no strict rule for glassware. Gose shows best in a slender glass or a tulip glass, where aroma and carbonation can gather. Pils is usually served in a tall pilsner glass or a goblet. Both beers should be served chilled, but not ice-cold, or the Gose's acidity gets lost behind the cold.

Pouring follows the style. Pils is poured at an angle and finished with a firm, dense head. For Gose, a gentle pour is enough, keeping the yeast in suspension in the glass rather than clinging to the sides.