Tasting

What does a Kölsch taste like? Fresh, light, with a hint of fruit and a clean, dry finish. The aroma recalls bread crust and hay, sometimes apple. The carbonation is lively but not sharp. Anyone used to Pils will find Kölsch milder and less bitter; anyone familiar with Helles will notice the extra freshness.

It's served in the Stange, a slender, cylindrical glass usually holding 0.2 liters. The narrow shape serves a practical purpose: the foam holds, the carbonation stays in the beer, and the glass empties quickly while it's still cold. Cologne sources cite a serving temperature of around eight to ten degrees Celsius. Served too cold, the delicate fruit aromas get lost.

A few beers worth trying: Früh Kölsch is considered the brewhouse classic by the cathedral, Gaffel Kölsch ranks among the city's major brands, and Reissdorf and Päffgen are other well-known names. Mühlen Kölsch and the beer from the Sion brewhouse are also worth the comparison. Tasted side by side, it becomes clear just how differently yeast, hops, and malt can express themselves within the same style.

Serving in the brewhouse follows a fixed routine. The Köbes draws the beer from the cask into the Stange and carries the glasses on a Kranz, a round tray with a handle in the center that holds up to 19 glasses. As soon as a glass is empty, a fresh one appears on the table, unasked. Anyone who's had enough places their beer coaster on top of the glass, and that ends the round.