Tasting

What does beer from Würzburg taste like? A Helles from the region smells of fresh bread and grain, with the hops staying in the background. On the palate it's soft and round, the bitterness arriving late and fading quickly. A Festbier comes across fuller and sweeter. This is the taste of a beer aimed not at sharpness, but at drinkability.

Three breweries offer good examples for comparison. Würzburger Hofbräu is the city's largest brewery, and its Kiliani Festbier is the classic festival style. Alongside it are two independent family breweries from the surrounding area that identify themselves, by their own account, under the Mainfranken Bier name: Kauzen Bräu from Ochsenfurt and Brauerei Kesselring from Marktbreit.

In Franconia, the preferred glass is cylindrical with a handle, or a slender stange, so the foam has something to cling to. A Helles is best enjoyed at around 7 to 8°C (45–46°F), while the Festbier can take a touch more warmth. Too cold numbs the tongue; too warm and it tastes flat and overly sweet.

When pouring, tilt the glass and let the beer run down the side until it's half full. Then set the glass upright and top it off until a firm, white head forms. The foam protects the beer from oxygen and preserves its aroma. How long the pour takes depends on the equipment and temperature, there's no fixed rule. Watch a cask being tapped at a traditional inn, and you'll usually see an unhurried server taking their time.