Tasting

What does Zoigl taste like? Malt first: bread crust, a touch of caramel, and nutty notes in darker batches. Behind that comes a light, floral yeast note, with the hops staying understated. Because carbonation is low, the beer feels soft and only lightly sparkling.

The appearance gives away how it's served: Zoigl is naturally hazy, golden yellow to amber in color, and the head tends to be fine and soft. The more recently the barrel was tapped, the fresher and livelier it tastes.

Zoigl doesn't carry a single brand name. You order it by house and village, so you might ask for the Zoigl from the Neuhaus communal brewhouse, or from Windischeschenbach, Falkenberg, Mitterteich, and Eslarn. Every Stube has its own barrel, and it's worth trying two side by side.

It's drunk cellar-cool rather than ice-cold, so the malt aroma can come through. Because the beer goes down so smoothly, it's easier to drink than you'd think. So here, as everywhere, moderation is key, and if you're driving, skip the alcohol.

It's poured straight from the barrel, usually with a gentle, unhurried hand so as not to stir up too much yeast. Don't expect strong carbonation here.

A simple sequence helps when tasting: first smell the glass, then take a small sip, then drink. The aroma of bread crust and yeast tells you a lot about the house. Anyone comparing two Stuben should drink some water in between to keep the palate fresh.