Tasting

What does Alsatian beer taste like? Mostly pale, fresh, and free of harshness. You'll taste clean malt, a touch of bread, and over it the floral, citrusy aroma of Strisselspalt. The bitterness stays in the background, and the finish is short and smooth.

Four addresses serve as good examples. Kronenbourg 1664 from Obernai, at 5.5 percent, represents the major lager tradition. The pilsner from Brasserie Meteor in Hochfelden comes from an independent family-run operation. In Strasbourg, Au Brasseur and Brasserie Perle show what Alsace's smaller breweries can do.

Which glass is right? In France, you order a demi, a small glass holding about 25 centiliters. Want more? Order a pinte, usually half a liter. What matters most is a clean glass free of detergent residue, otherwise the head will collapse.

Lager is best enjoyed at 5 to 8 degrees Celsius. Too cold, and the hop aroma disappears; too warm, and it turns heavy. When pouring, tilt the glass, let the beer run down the side, then straighten it at the end to build a firm, lasting head.

Tasting involves three steps: look at the color, smell at the glass, then drink in small sips and check the bitterness at the back of the tongue. Those who skip alcohol can find alcohol-free versions of the major lagers in Alsace too. To cleanse the palate between beers, water and a piece of bread do the job, keeping the palate fresh enough to catch the subtle differences between beers.