Tasting

What does a Cornish cask ale taste like? It's mild, malty, and pleasantly dry, with flavors of bread crust, toffee, orange peel, and a touch of earthiness from the hops. Carbonation is low, the head small and creamy. If you're used to a German Pils, you'll notice less chill and more malt. The finish is short and dry, with sweetness rarely lingering on the palate, and that's exactly what invites a second sip.

The examples here are closely matched. Doom Bar from Sharp's is the more balanced choice, Tribute from St Austell has a bit more body and hop character, while Proper Job leans toward the fresh, bitter IPA direction. Try three glasses side by side and you'll notice from color and bitterness just how far a style can stretch.

It's served in a pint glass. An Imperial Pint holds 568 milliliters, a Half Pint holds half that, so 284. Glasses with a slight bulge beneath the rim are called Nonic glasses, they're more resistant to chipping and sit well in the hand.

The temperature is cellar temperature, cool but noticeably warmer than a Pils, so that the flavors can open up. Served too cold, the beer tastes thin and loses its malt and hop character. One degree too warm, on the other hand, makes it flat and stale, with a narrow middle.

When pouring, the landlord pulls the handpump lever down repeatedly until the glass is full. The foam should just reach over the rim, and a pint is filled to the line.