Tasting

An Edinburgh ale in a pint glass tastes of bread crust, caramel and a touch of fruit, with the hop kept in the background. The imperial pint holds 568 millilitres. Those wanting less can order a "half," meaning half a pint. The colour ranges from amber to copper-brown, with the head usually fine and low.

Four reference points help anyone tasting the region's beer. Deuchars IPA, once brewed on Slateford Road, now comes from Belhaven in Dunbar and is pale, dry and noticeably hoppier than the rest. Belhaven itself offers a malt-forward Scottish Ale. Stewart Brewing, based on the city's edge, carries beers with Edinburgh names such as Embra, St Giles, Holyrood and Cauld Reekie. And Barney's at Summerhall brews a mid-strength beer called Good Ordinary Pale Ale.

Cask ale, served without added gas pressure, is poured in Edinburgh as across Britain cooler than room temperature but warmer than a lager, often around ten to thirteen degrees Celsius. Too cold, and the malt aromas vanish. The publican draws the beer up from the cellar with the handpump, or "beer engine," and the tap usually stays right at the bar.

When tasting an 80/-, it's worth comparing it to a 60/- or 70/-. The less original gravity, the lighter the body, and the more the malt recedes behind the hop. A Wee Heavy is best sipped small and slow, like a dessert wine.